Island of Sedcro, Croatia
I’m seriously addicted to online shopping. Give me my pajamas, or not, a computer, preferably with a high speed connection, a steaming cup of java… credit card, with some room for movement, and all is good. Don't even think about calling me at 11:00 am when the daily deals start rolling in! If I never step foot in a store again alls OK in the World. Well, maybe Costco.
So, when we set out on this sailing adventure I figured I would have a few withdrawal pangs. I know Amazon is taking over the world but I still figured those drones wouldn’t have a hope in hell of finding us.
Forget the drones, it’s all about Phiip Kordic…. He might not work for Amazon but he still found us.
We had just finished our clumsy grab for a buoy in the Bay of Mostir on the Island of Sedcro, which is kind of out in the middle of nowhere in the Adriatic Sea off the Western Coast of Croatia. The setting was utterly ridiculous - Crazy blue water dotted with diamonds, old fishing boats tied up at the dock , cats lazying around in the sun waiting for the leftovers. I swear one beaten up old boat, loaded down with nets and painted an aqua marine blue was manned by the old man in the Sea - Tanned weather beaten face, graying hair peeking out from a Greek Sailors cap and a Black curly que pipe firmly clamped in his teeth. Maybe too much sun?
After we cut the engine we plunged in. The water was icy cold and ridiculously clear. Perfect. As we were sun drying a little boat put putted towards us manned by Philip Kordic.Yep, he is the son of the fisherman we had seen earlier, who is also happens to be the owner of the family run restaurant- Taverna of Pavao, which we ate at later that evening. He had been heading out to sea to catch the evenings special.
Philip, quickly lined up his offerings on the deck of our boat, handed us some glasses and offered us a tasting - How could you resist - Walnut, tangerine, lemon and hazelnut liquers, white and red wine, grappa, olive oils, fancy soaps, marmelade and honeys. He makes them all himself. WC Fields in a bathing suit, he even offered up a magical elixir which he claims cures everything from from sun burn to depression (It has St. John Wort in it). After sampling many, hey we were already moored, we bought several and made arrangements for an early morning delivery of strudel and wood baked baguette - Is this for real? Although, now I would have to get my lazy ass up by 8:00 am….
Later that evening we made our way to the Kordic restaurant, the deal was, you grab one of their buoys you eat at the restaurant. Not a bad deal. The family roots on the Island trace back several hundreds of years. They are the only family that lives on the Island almost all the year round.
As we meandered our way to the restaurant we passed the amazingly preserved ruins of a Dominican monastery built in the 11 th - 15 th century. Apparently, the Dominican monks deserted the monastery at about the end of the 18 th century due to frequent raids on the islands by pirates. Johnny Depp really???? Come on!!!
On the outer wall of a little house, in the vicinity of the sea, you can still see a stone archway that was used as an alter by the seamen who anchored their boats in the bay. Praying that the sea would be kind to them that day.
On the menu - the big white fish caught by his father that afternoon. He was lucky that day and so were we. My dining companion the woeful eyed dog of the village. Pretty sure he had practiced his look down to perfection. The only other diners - were the other lucky boaters who had entered the Bay. Delicious Local cheeses including the salty Pag Island cheese and a oil stored goats cheese, smoky lean Dalmatian prosciutto, Coatian olive oil and wood baked bread were the starters. Washed down with a crisp white wine made by Philip, of course. For the main, what else but the spectacular fish just plucked from the sea a few hours before. Beautifully grilled, just kissed with olive and lemon….. It was enough to break your heart. No amount of twisting could get us to try the dessert- chocolate stuffed pancakes….. Next time.
After making our way back to the boat and settling into a food and boat rocking coma the next thing I heard was the put put of Philips outboard …….Warm baguettes, slathered in tangerine marmelade, flaky golden studded studded with tart green apples- 8:00 right on time. Who needs Amazon………..